Kaiseki Room by Yamada
Isao Yamada, a kaiseki master from Fukuoka in southern Japan, trained at the Tsuji Culinary School in Osaka, went on to a highly rated kaiseki restaurant in Kyoto, and eventually became the chef at David Bouley’s Brushstroke. Now, he’s opening this intimate kaiseki restaurant. What he is doing, he says, is traditional, but with a New York cast (think: a tomato-cured Hudson Valley silver trout) and relying mostly on imported ingredients. The sous-chef is Yoo Jung Suh, a Korean chef who studied at the Culinary Institute of America and who also worked in Japan and at Brushstroke. Mr. Yamada is in partnership with the Group, the owner of the Omakase Room by Mitsu in the West Village, and the Boucherie restaurants. (The Group’s La Grande Boucherie occupies most of the location.) The restaurant, consisting of 10 seats at the bar and another six at tables, is done in pale wood curved in decorative slats and blocks. The interior was devised by Pierre Renart, Julien Legeard and the Group’s founder Emil Stefkov. There’s a single seasonal menu of 11 beautifully presented courses, for $300, which for fall includes toro tartare with osetra caviar, chawanmushi with uni and horsehair crab, a selection of sashimi and imported Sanuki-Wagyu from cattle that were fed olives.
145 West 53rd Street (6½ Avenue Passageway), kaisekiroom.nyc.
From L’Artusi, half a block away and known for its Italian fare and wines, comes this smaller Italian wine bar with plates to share. Black bass ceviche with melon, basil and Calabrian chile; tuna crudo with confit orange, capers and celery; lamb meatballs with hazelnuts; broccoli cacio e pepe; and braised short rib lasagna give you some idea of the offerings. (Opens Wednesday)
520 Hudson Street (West 10th Street), 646-517-1112, bartusinyc.com.
Jack & Charlie’s No. 118
Vintage supper club décor with leather banquettes, antique mirrors and white linen defines this space, which is organized into separate dining areas. Oysters figure prominently, as do specialties like clam chowder, Caesar and wedge salads, cedar-plank salmon, tomahawk steak for two and, on Fridays and Saturdays, slow-roasted prime rib with horseradish cream and popovers, to book in advance. Ed Cotton, a Daniel alumnus, is the chef presiding over the kitchen, which has a wood oven. The bar features martinis in several iterations and snacks like shepherd’s pie croquettes. There is no Jack or Charlie involved; the name evokes an old New York speakeasy.
118 Greenwich Avenue (13th Street), 212-680-4265, jackandcharlies118.com.
Having nothing to do with Jesse Schenker’s West Village restaurant of the same name, which closed in 2016, this spinoff of the Consulate on the Upper West Side has the same owners (Igor Drca, Metodija Mihajlov and Miljan Komnenic) and chef (Alan Vargas) as their other restaurant. The mostly French menu is practically a clone.
103 Havemeyer Street (Hope Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 347-227-8829, recettebrooklyn.com.